The Plan
The Equipment
Skiing the Haute route is a fairly major undertaking and having the right kit makes things so much more enjoyable. Here is what we used.
Skis
Boots
Poles
Ideally a telescopic touring pole with an extended grip.
Rucksack
These will be carried for the majority of the time. We all used the incredibly light Petzl Leopard crampons and the Petzl Ride ice axes.
Harness
Helmet
The Petzl Meteor is ideal as it is rated for both climbing and Skiing
We took 2 pairs of ski socks each. We recommend the Falke touring socks. we planned to wear 1 pair for skiing and change into the dry "fresh" pair in the huts.
Various models will be available for the coming season. By Mountain Equipment, Dynafit, etc
Underwear
Often overlooked but wicking fast drying underwear is a must. Check out the range from BawBags.
We used the Icebreaker Merino zone which has a high neck to protect from the sun and a long zip for ventilation. A spare similar top is worth carrying either to be used as an extra layer or to change into at the huts.
The Mountain Equipment Switch jacket is ideal
Colin had a sample from Dynafit the TLT jacket which we will now be stocking for the coming winter. Elaine used a Mountain Equipment shell. We were fortunate with the weather and only used these on a couple of occasions, at the summits of the Rosa Blanche and Pigne D Arolla
Gloves
We both took two pairs, a touring specific design like the Level Ski Alper and a warmer pair used on the climb, hanging around at the summits and for the longer descents.
As well as a helmet we carried and used baseball caps for sun protection and a Buff for the cold morning starts and the higher summits.
Sunglasses and Goggles are essential. Goggles should have a low-light lens for the poorer weather days. Sunglasses will hopefully be used most of the time so a darker lens and a good fit are the main considerations.... apart from looking cool whilst having a beer in the afternoon on the hut terraces.
A lightweight down or synthetic-filled duvet jacket.
I carried a Platy pus1 litre soft bottle which at times was a wee bit small.
Food
The huts if requested supply a packed lunch. We survived on Jelly babies and Haribo.....the food of champions.
A Small first aid kit for blisters etc. We also took a small spares kit for skis, bindings, skins.
We trained for the Haute route for months before going. However, Inverness is pretty much at sea level, and despite all our days out on the local hills we were all going to feel the effect of the higher elevations. We flew out on Monday. This allowed us to have a day (Tuesday) blasting around the piste to get the legs working.
From the top of the col the route descends before contouring around the Tour glacier.
Due to the lean conditions, we headed to the Col Du Tour. This involved crossing a short snow ridge before an interesting 50 meter scramble.
From the Col the Trient an easy ski leads down towards the Trient hut.
A short final skin eventually leads to the Trient Hut about 8 hours after getting on the Plan Jordan lift.
The second day of our chosen route was quite short. We had a lazy breakfast and were the last to leave the hut at about 9 am. A short gentle ski down from the Trient hut leads to the Serac barrier which can be passed on Skiers Right.
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The route then climbs over the Col Des Ecandies. Which was more imposing than we expected.
A fairly new fixed rope was in situ to protect this climb.
After soaking up the sunshine a long descent (1300m vertical) of the beautiful Val d' Arpette leads to Champex.
After a Taxi ride to Verbier we used the lifts and Pistes to access the beautiful Mont Fort Hut.
The route initially follows the piste for a while before climbing the last 250 meters up to the Col de la Chaux.
A gentle descending traverse leads to the lac du Petit Mont Fort. After the previous day in the Verbier ski resort, this area feels very remote. and on our trip we had it virtually to ourselves.
A gentle rising traverse leads to the Col De Momin before skirting around the top of the Grand Desert towards the Rosablanche. This area was significantly busier with teams training for the PDG race that would be passing through a fortnight after our trip.
An initialy easy descent down the Glacier de Prafleuri leads to some complex terrain to reach the Prafleuri hut and a relaxing sit in the sunshine.
It is possible to get from the Trient hut to the Prafleuri in one long hard day.
The fourth day of our Haute route starts with a stiff climb straight out of the hut and over the Col Des Roux.
From the col, it is possible to see the majority of the route to the Dix hut. After an initial steep start on hard icy snow, the route takes a descending traverse heading towards the head of Lac de Dix. Due to the lean conditions, we had to boot pack part of this traverse.
After a fairly long drag above the lake, you reach the Pas du Chat. This starts with an exposed traverse on steep ground with a long drop below and a significant snow slope above. It is quite important to reach this section early as the sun hits this slope mid-morning. Even with our harscheisen on this still felt quite an intimidating traverse.
From here a steep long skin leads to easier ground and a long hot drag up to the Dix hut
The Dix hut is situated high above the Glacier de Cheilon and the final skin up is hard work!
From the Dix hut, the start of tomorrow's route is clearly visible.
After an all too-short sleep, it is yet another early start. Initially down the slope from yesterday and across the Glacier de Cheilon for a 500-meter climb up to the Col du Serpentine. This is quite a complex area and as we gained height we roped up as there were some crevasses to cross. As the ground eases at the top of the Col the Matterhorn comes in to view in the distance. It does still look a long way away.
Another climb awaits to gain the Col du Brenay. This is quite steep, we roped up and boot packed the steeper lower section.
From the col, it is quite straightforward (if the weather is good) to reach the route's high point the Pigne d'Arolla.
The ski down from the summit of the Pigne is one of the best ski descents on the route.
In bad weather it could be very easy to miss the Vignettes hut.
Getting to Zermatt from the Vignettes hut is a long day. There are three cols to negotiate and a lot of kilometers! Leaving the hut as the sun was starting to rise we bootpacked along the ridge from the hut.
The initial slopes towards the Glacier were heavily tracked and frozen solid. We opted for crampons and to descend the steeper slopes on foot before getting the skis back on below the rock band. From here the angle eases to the Col De Charmotane and the Glacier du Mont Collon.
Passing under the North face of Petit Mont Collon before skinning up to the Col de Eoeque. From here another pleasant ski leads to the Haute Glacier d'Arolla and a skin up towards the Col du Mont Brule.
This Col is probably one of the cruxes of the route. We found the lower section was very dry. We roped up and waited our turn on this bottleneck. A 100-meter scramble over rocks led back to snow and the final climb to the col.
From the Col du Mont Brule the final col is visible in the distance. A very easy ski leads down onto the Haut Glacier de Tsa de Tsan trying desperately to carry as much speed before the last slog starts.
A long gentle skin eventually leads to the Col de Valpelline. As you come up the last few meters the Matterhorn starts to appear.
Just before we left Chamonix we had been informed that due to the dangerous state of the Stockl glacier, the Zermatt guides were no longer taking clients on to it. However, the Swiss army had been drafted in to find a "safe" route through the crevasses for the upcoming PDG race. Marker poles guided us through the last of the objective dangers.
We traveled as quickly as we could past the Icefalls and avalanche debris in the background.
After about a kilometer of walking it is possible to join the pistes of Zermatt for the final ski to the village.
Doing the Haute route was an amazing experience. We were lucky with the weather and the conditions. It is easy to see why it is the most famous ski tour in the world.
